contrast paint napoleonic
I kept this nice and saturated, as it’s such a small detail that it should be called out. I based the bedroll at the same time as the backpack and washed them both together to save a little time, then highlighted them both up separately. You could crank this up with an extra highlight of White Scar at the end, but this will do for your rank and file. It is good to see people put together Austrians. These patterns are all the same across the regiments, so don’t worry about which one you’re painting. I will be to use Neutral Grey 992 to touch up the trousers and the napsacks (the dip will add texture and you will see that in later the pictures) and at that point we’ve nearly finished the block colours. Basecoats as before: I actually painted the kilt on this model first. And I have begun to use for horses on my Forged in Battle 15mm Scythians- they also look good. There are some brass details here as well, which you’ll find on the basket hilts of the swords as well as in some details on the musket. Don’t be too worried if you go over the lace, because it’s very difficult to paint inbetween the lace or where the lace will eventually be. Stay up to date with our blog posts, events, new products and special offers by signing up to our newsletter. Modelling Tips & Ideas.

Strictly speaking, that should be a very dark blue bordering on black, but I just wanted the facings to be obviously blue, so I tended to use a mid colour blue, which would make it clear that they had blue facings. on the piping this will serve to further define the color border, while on the more solid fields of red it will provide shading. I focused on a good high-tabletop standard paint job, but with the knowledge that a lot of my time would be spent carefully freehanding patterns on cloth.

I decided I’d make heavy use of Contrast when painting anything for historical systems, and had great success bashing out two entire platoons at 15mm in an evening using this method. Space them as evenly as possible. Website by. After researching some different regiments, I settled on the iconic Black Watch for a number of reasons – mostly it turns out only a handful of regiments actually wore the traditional kilt and highland getup, and they’re probably the most famous. This done, go back and do a second layer over each of the squares to make the colour nice and strong, then tidy up any wobbles or slips with the Silver Grey. Now the pattern on the band. I can come back to those later and touch those up.

I started by blocking in the largest areas, with a plan to tidy up afterwards. For the 92nd (Gordon Highlanders) I’d go for Blood Red on the bottom 2/3 and Silver Grey on that top third, Nuln oil for any areas of Grey Black, Silver Grey and Blood Red, Scale75 Blood Red for the red coat and sock tops, Vallejo Silver Grey for the straps and trim, and the socks, Vallejo Brown Leather for the leather straps and parts, and the wood on the gun, Vallejo Grey Black for the backpack, satchels and the boots, Scale75 Canterbaric Blue for the waterbottle, Scale75 Black Metal for the gun barrel and mechanism, bayonet and any other little metal pieces, Nuln Oil over all of the jack, straps, boots, satchels, waterbottle, socks, metallic areas, backpack and bedroll, Get out basecoat touched up and cleaned up if needed. For example on the rifles, I’m not too fussy about how I paint the brown stocks, because I know that if I go over the barrels, when I come to the next colour, the gunmetal, I can correct any errors I have made. I like it because it allows me to produce figures to a reasonable standard, relatively quickly, with the emphasis on trying to produce a wargaming unit rather than a piece that would go into a competition. I realised at the start of the year that having projects I could just kind of coast through would help keep my motivation up, and so I dove in to historical miniatures. However I only have two painted zombies which doesn't seem right for post-apoc games. I will go back to the red and give that another coat to make it a bit brighter, and then that’s the block painting finished.

Once this was dry I went back and picked out the raised areas with the Model Air White. I am not a fast painter. Out of these cookies, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are as essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website.

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